Bartop Arcade Notes:



V1.: uploaded 4/23/18 @ 11pm (see bottom for changes)





This was a pleasure to build. I spent a couple weeks off and on designing, tweaking, and cutting this file. Please let me know how you like it, or have any questions. darrell.moye@gmail.com







NOTE: Some changes may need to be made based off what hardware you use (Monitor, Joystick and buttons, and speakers.



NOTE: It woulld benefit to have an L bracket mount so you can change pieces in and out for different cuts to make sure everything lines up precise when done.





Materials Needed:



4x8x1/2" MDF (Uses roughly 3/4 of the sheet) Measure your thickness. All full depth cuts are set at .530. Adjust as needed.

2x4x1/4" MDF All full depth cuts are set at .25". Adjust as needed.

Glue

Epoxy or CA Glue

Clamps

8 truss head mDF screws



Monitor of choice: Modify Monitor Cutout to match. NOTE: overall width may need to be modified to fit your monitor (i.e. you are putting in a widescree monitor. Pieces that will need to be width modified for cut: Monitor panel, Joystick panel, Top, Marquee, Marquee bottom panel, Front Bottom, Bottom, back, and Back Door Panel. ***Don't forget to widen the back door panel so you have enough room to install your monitor.



Joystick and Buttons: https://www.amazon.com/Quimat-Joystick-Controller-Rapsberry-Windows/dp/B06XCTT1JD/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524199257&sr=8-1&keywords=quimat+joystick&dpID=51bq4zVdpwL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch



Speakers: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Twins-USB-Powered-Computer-Speakers/dp/B00GHY5F3K/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524197183&sr=8-3&keywords=usb+speakers&dpID=61bU8KJtuUL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch



Rasberry Pi with power cord: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Power-Supply-Listed/dp/B07BC6WH7V/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524201829&sr=1-3&keywords=raspberry+pi+3+b%2B&dpID=51IC7SDI3cL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch



Micro CD Card: https://www.amazon.com/TF-Card-32GB-Marceloant-microSDHC/dp/B079DV589Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1524201903&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=32gb+micro+sd+card&psc=1





HDMI/DVI cable



USB Extension Cables: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N8T7PTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1





Tools:

Awesome Shapeoko

Table saw for piece cutouts

Router or router table with round-over bit for edges. I used a .25" rounover bit







Design and Cut Notes:



Step 1: Go ahead and cut out all of your pieces on the Table Saw if you have one. See cutsheet pic on CutRocket.



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Step 2: CNC cuts



Font used is Perfect Dark. Can be downloaded here: https://www.dafont.com/search.php?q=perfect+dark





Note: Cut in this order for minimal bit changeouts. THis is where an L Bracket comes in so you have a permanent zero location. the Shapeoko will remember this zero whether you turn it off and back on or not. You can always come back to this start point which will allow you to run thru the bits in series. Cut all 1/4" cuts first. Remove pieces and cut remaining 1/4" pieces. Then swap over to 1/8" bit, then 1/32 bit. This will speed up your cut time tremendously.



SIDES: 1/4" Flat Endmill

1. Speaker Cutouts: Designed to fit Amazon Basics USB powered Speakers. There are three boxes on the speaker cutouts. Outer and innermost are there to do a quick recess cut with .25 bit, then come back and cut out the inner box which gives a snug fit for the speakers.
   
2. Dado Grooves are .53 wide. Check your MDF thickness and adjust as needed. Add 2 thousandths to your measurement to ensure a snug but workable fit.
   
3. Round-over front, top, and back edges with router.
   
   
   
   MONITOR PANEL: 1/4" Flat Endmill
   
   
   
   BACK: 1/4" Endmill
   
4. 10 Cut top edge at 10 degrees
   
   
   
   BOTTOM: 1/4" Endmill
   
   
   
   BACK DOOR PANEL: 1/4" Endmill (1/32" endmill if you want to add your logo)
   
   *** Don't forget to modify this so that you can insert your monitor.
   
   
   
   BOTTOM DOOR PANEL: 1/4" Endmill
   
   
   
   FRONT BOTTOM PANEL: 1/8" and 1/32" endmills
   
5. Cut top edge at 5 degrees and trim to fit.
   
6. USB Extention cables can be epoxied in or glued in with CA glue.
   
   
   
   JOYSTICK PANEL: 1/8" Flat Endmill
   
   
   
7. Joystick mount screws are set for m5 Allen head bolts. Adjust recess and cutout as needed.
   
   
   
8. Cutouts designed for Quimat Arcade Joystick set.
   
   
   
   
   
9. Top Edge of Joystick panel needs to be cut at 15 degrees to mate up to Monitor panel.
   
   
   
   
   
   MARQUEE: 1'8" Endmill to cut logo.
   
   
   
   TOP: No cnc work needed. Cut back edge at 10 degrees and trim as needed.
   
   
   
   BOTTOM MARQUEE PANEL: No CNC work needed.
   
   
   
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   Step 3: Cut your angle cuts on table saw and final trim those pieces.
   
   
   
   Front Bottom: 10 degree cut at the top
   
   Joystick Panel: 15 degree cut at the back
   
   Top: 10 degree cut at the back
   
   Back: 10 degree cut at the top.
   
   
   
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   Step 4: Route and cleanup.
   
   
   
   Roundover Side pieces on the front, top, and back.
   
   Roundover Top Panel, Bottom Marquee Panel, and front edge of joystick panel
   
   I added a 45 degree chamfer around the monitor cutout. It gives a nice clean look.
   
   
   
   Tip: If you have a router table, use a flush trim bit to remove tabs. It makes quick work of removing them with a nice flush finish.
   
   
   
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   Step 5: Glue-up:
   
   
   
   I've come to realize there is an easier way to glue up the arcade. This method works well if you have limited clamps as it allows adding in panels in multiple steps.
   
   
   
10. Glue Monitor, Bottom Marquee and Marquee slots on both sides. Insert panels into grooves on one side. Place other side on and clamp to dry (~1 hr should be dry enough to move to next steps).
    
    
    
11. Glue bottom slots on both sides and insert bottom panel with the door opening at the front below where the joystick panel will be placed. The goal is to have a removable panel to access the control panel if needed.
    
    
    
12. Glue top slot on both sides and slide into place
    
    
    
13. Glue Slots for back and slide into place.
    
    
    
14. Glue slots for Joystick Panel and slide into place
    
    
    
15. Glue slots for front bottom panel and slide into place.
    
    
    
16. Clamp to dry (or glue up and clamp in stages if you have limited clamps).
    
    
    
17. Pre-drill pilot holes for bottom and back panels
    
    
    
18. Use the 8 MDF screws to secure back and bottom panels into place after installing all hardware (next steps)
    
    
    
19. At this point the arcade is ready to paint.
    
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    Step 6: Install your hardware.
    
    
    
    Front USB ports: Place into hole and glue in with ca glue or epoxy
    
    
    
    Speakers: Place into hole and epoxy around the edges
    
    
    
    Monitor: Depending on your monitor. I removed the LCD panel and guts from the casing on my monitor and secured in place with a couple quick-made clamps.
    
    
    
    Joystick Panel: Install all buttons and joystick.
    
    
    
    CPU: Install Rasberry Pi. I have a cut file for a Rasberry Pi mount at CutRocket made from MDF. I am updating it and cutting one out of ABS plastic with risers for the pi mount. Check back for updated version soon.
    
    
    
    Connect all cables: Self explanatory, but one thing I want to note here. If your monitor has built in USB ports, use these to power the USB speakers. This will reduce power drain on the rasberry pi and reduce any potential power strain issues.
    
    
    
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    Step 7: Congratulations. Play some games. You've built your own awesome bartop Arcade. Please let me know how you like it. I would love to see pics of what you all do with this. Change the fonts, add in more details, go wild. This is meant as a base to build off on your own.
    
    
    
    There are files for these Arcades out there, but nothing for Carbide Create. Magic can be done with Carbide Create if you tweak and work on it. This is one of those projects. I set out first to make an arcade. I wanted to push Create and see if I could do it. I did. Now you can too.
    
    
    
    These files will never be sold, so all I ask is to not sale or make profit in anyway with these files. Build one for friends and family. It makes a great conversation piece or party entertainment.
    
    
    
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    V1.8 changes:
    
    
    
    
    
    changed sizes on marquee, back panel, Marquee bottom for more precise fit.
    
    
    
    Tweaked Joystick and Button location. Move over to right about 2 inches
    
    
    
    Added note to Pre-cut all pieces based off cut sheet.
    
    
    
    shifted P1 and P2 logos on Front Bottom Panel
    
    
    
    Added tabs on Speaker Hole Cutout on Sides so it won't get snagged into the router.
    
    
    
    Added install steps
    
    
    
    Added in Marquee Logo cut after Joystick Panel cut
    
    
    
    Tweaked Side Panel Grooves around the marquee location for a better fit and reduce un-needed cut area.
    
    
    
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    V1.9 Changes:
    
    
    
    Added .25 Fillet to Top and Bottom Marquee Dado Grooves for a smoother look when assembled.
    
    
    
    Extended Dado Groove Cut for Back and Bottom out to end of the panel. This will make assembly easier (See install notes)
    
    
    
    Added more detailed notes to installation instructions (Step 5).